Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
