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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.